Let’s be honest: homegrown strawberries taste nothing like store-bought. The grocery store versions are bred to survive 18-wheelers and last two weeks in a fridge drawer. But the real deal — those sun-warmed, juicy, borderline-candy berries you pluck straight off the vine? Yeah, those are a different species altogether.
So if you’re even thinking about growing strawberries this season, especially in raised beds, this guide is for you. I’ll walk you through what actually works, what doesn’t, and how to pull off a backyard berry patch that produces like a champ.
Why Raised Beds Work Wonders for Strawberries
First things first: strawberries love raised beds. They’re shallow-rooted plants that thrive in well-drained, loose soil — which is basically the entire point of raised gardening. Plus, raised beds give you better control over moisture, weeds, and spacing.
Bonus? You won’t be on your hands and knees in soggy ground trying to rescue a ripe berry before a slug beats you to it.
Tip #1: Pick the Right Strawberry Type (Yes, There Are Types)
Before you plant a single crown, you need to know the difference between the three main kinds of strawberries:
- June-bearing: Big yields, one huge harvest in late spring or early summer. Great for jamming and freezing.
- Everbearing: Smaller yields but multiple harvests (usually two big flushes: spring and late summer).
- Day-neutral: These are the marathoners. They produce berries consistently from spring to frost, as long as the temps stay below 85°F.
If you’re in it for maximum harvest over time, day-neutrals are your go-to. If you want one giant strawberry explosion, go June-bearing. Or, do what I do: plant all three and call it a strawberry insurance policy.
Tip #2: Give Them the Soil They Deserve
Strawberries want rich, well-drained, slightly acidic soil (pH 5.5 to 6.5). If you’re planting in raised beds, mix up a batch like this:
- 40% topsoil
- 40% compost
- 20% coconut coir or peat moss
- Add a handful of bone meal for phosphorus and a light sprinkle of blood meal for nitrogen
Don’t forget to mulch with straw (not hay!) to retain moisture, keep berries clean, and suppress weeds.
Tip #3: Space Like You Mean It
Don’t cram your plants. Strawberry plants need airflow. Crowded berries = moldy berries.
Here’s what I recommend:
- Space plants 12–18 inches apart
- Leave 3–4 feet between rows
- Raised beds should be no more than 4 feet wide for easy access from both sides
And yes, those cute little runners? You’ll want to snip most of them unless you’re propagating new plants. Otherwise, they turn into a tangled berry mess real quick.
Tip #4: Sunlight = Sugar
Strawberries need full sun — at least 6 hours, ideally 8–10. The more sun they get, the sweeter they taste.
If your raised beds are shaded even part of the day, consider relocating. This isn’t the time for compromise. Strawberries are divas in the best way — give them the spotlight.
Tip #5: Water Like a Strawberry Whisperer
Strawberries want consistent moisture, but not soggy roots. Too dry and the berries shrivel. Too wet and they rot. Aim to keep the top 1–2 inches of soil evenly moist.
Water at the base, not overhead. Use drip irrigation or a soaker hose if you’re feeling fancy (or just practical).
Tip #6: Protect the Goods
Strawberries are like candy to every critter in your yard. Birds, slugs, chipmunks — they all want a bite.
Here’s how to fight back:
- Netting: Keeps birds from swooping in and stealing ripe berries.
- Copper tape: Slugs hate crossing it. Line your raised beds with a strip.
- Raised bed covers: If you have the time, build simple hinged covers with hardware cloth to protect your beds from everything short of a deer stampede.
Tip #7: Prune and Replant Like a Pro
Strawberry plants don’t last forever. They produce best in years 2–3, then kind of fizzle out. So every year, mark your beds and rotate in some new transplants.
At the end of each season:
- Cut back foliage to about 1 inch above crowns (for June-bearers)
- Remove any sickly-looking plants
- Toss on a layer of mulch or straw to insulate over winter
Every 3–4 years, start a new bed from runners or nursery transplants to keep the strawberry train rolling.
Bonus: How I Built a Raised Bed Just for Strawberries
One of my favourite strawberry setups?
- 4’x4′ cedar raised bed, 10 inches deep
- Filled with the soil mix I shared earlier
- Centre drip line under mulch
- Straw mulch with weed barrier cloth underneath
- 16 day-neutral plants (spaced well, runners managed)
By July, it looked like a mini strawberry jungle — and yes, I had to fight the robins for every berry.
Final Thoughts
Strawberries in raised beds = more berries, less mess, and way less weeding. And once you get that first basket of warm, sun-ripened berries off the vine, you’ll never want store-bought again.
So go on, build that bed, plant those crowns, and get ready for a season of berry-stained fingers and garden bragging rights. Just promise me one thing — you’ll share at least one jar of jam.
Or don’t. I won’t tell.
