Hatching chicks at home can be one of the most exciting and rewarding experiences for any backyard chicken keeper. Whether you’re doing it for the first time or just need a refresher, using an incubator to hatch chicks gives you full control over the process—and trust me, watching those tiny beaks poke through the shell never gets old.
In this guide, I’ll walk you through everything you need to know to successfully hatch chicks in an incubator, from choosing the right eggs to that magical hatch day (and beyond). Ready to play chicken midwife? Let’s go!
1. Get the Right Incubator
Before you even think about setting eggs, make sure you have a quality incubator. There are tons of options out there—from budget-friendly styrofoam models to high-tech, fully automated machines.
Look for features like:
- Temperature control (99.5°F is the magic number)
- Humidity gauge (essential for proper development)
- Automatic egg turner (a lifesaver if you don’t want to turn by hand multiple times a day)
- Good ventilation (chicks need oxygen to develop)
If you’re just starting out, a small incubator that holds 7–20 eggs is perfect. The Nurture Right 360 and Brinsea Mini II are both solid beginner-friendly models.
2. Choose Fertile Eggs
No matter how fancy your incubator is, it won’t do a thing if your eggs aren’t fertile. You can either:
- Buy hatching eggs from a trusted local breeder or hatchery
- Collect eggs from your own flock (if you have a rooster)
Pro tips for fertile eggs:
- Use clean but unwashed eggs (washing removes the protective bloom)
- Choose eggs that are not too large or misshapen
- Avoid cracked or thin-shelled eggs
- Store pointy-end-down in a cool spot (55–60°F) until ready
Try to set them within 7 days of being laid for the highest hatch rate.
3. Set Up the Incubator
Time to get everything ready before the eggs go in. This step is crucial!
A. Clean and Sanitize
Wipe down the incubator with warm water and a mild disinfectant. Make sure it’s totally dry before use.
B. Warm It Up
Turn on your incubator 24 hours before setting the eggs. This allows the temperature and humidity to stabilize.
- Temperature: 99.5°F (forced-air incubator) or 101.5°F (still-air)
- Humidity: Around 45–55% for days 1–17
Make sure your incubator is in a draft-free room with a stable temperature—not the garage or porch!
4. Set the Eggs
Once your incubator is running steady, place the eggs inside.
- Lay them on their sides or pointy-end down (depending on your incubator style)
- If turning manually, mark one side with an “X” and the other with an “O” using a pencil
- Space the eggs out so air can circulate
Now the countdown begins—it takes 21 days to hatch chicken eggs!
5. Daily Monitoring
The incubator does most of the work, but you’ll still need to check in daily.
A. Turning
Eggs must be turned at least 3–5 times per day until day 18. This keeps the embryo from sticking to the shell wall. An automatic turner makes this easier, but if you’re turning by hand, rotate them gently.
Stop turning on Day 18! That’s when the chicks start getting into hatching position.
B. Temperature & Humidity
Keep the temperature steady at 99.5°F. Fluctuations can reduce hatch success.
Humidity should stay around 45–55% until day 18, then bump it up to 65–70% during the final days to help soften the shell and make hatching easier.
Use a reliable hygrometer and thermometer (preferably digital) for accuracy.
6. Candling the Eggs
Candling is a cool way to check if your chicks are developing. Use a candling light or a strong flashlight in a dark room.
When to candle:
- Day 7: Look for veins and a developing embryo
- Day 14: You should see a larger dark mass and movement
- Day 18: Confirm development and discard any clear or undeveloped eggs
Don’t candle too often—it can disrupt development. Handle gently and keep the eggs warm during candling.
7. Lockdown! (Day 18–21)
This is the home stretch! On day 18:
- Stop turning the eggs
- Increase humidity to 65–70%
- Don’t open the incubator unless absolutely necessary
Lay the eggs on their sides if they were in a turner, and prepare for hatch day!
8. Hatching Day
Around day 21, you’ll hear the first peeps and possibly see some eggs “wiggle.” That’s your chick internally pipping—breaking into the air cell.
Stages of hatching:
- Internal Pip: Chick breaks into air cell to breathe
- External Pip: A crack or hole appears in the shell
- Zipping: Chick pecks a line around the shell
- Hatch: The top pops off and your chick wriggles free!
Important: DO NOT help unless it’s been more than 24 hours and the chick is clearly stuck or in distress. Patience is key. Most chicks hatch on their own within 12–24 hours of the first pip.
Keep the incubator closed to maintain humidity—opening it can shrink-wrap the chicks and make hatching harder.
9. After Hatching
Let the chicks dry off and fluff up inside the incubator (this takes about 6–12 hours). Once dry and active:
- Move them to a warm brooder (95°F under a heat lamp or brooder plate)
- Give them access to clean water and chick starter feed
- Dip their beaks in water the first time so they know where it is
They’ll be a bit wobbly at first, but don’t worry—it’s all part of the process.
Common Mistakes to Avoid
- Incubator in a drafty room: Leads to temp swings
- Not calibrating your thermometer/hygrometer: Cheap ones can be way off
- Over-handling the eggs: Disrupts development
- Opening the incubator during hatch: Can cause chicks to get stuck
- Low humidity at hatch time: Makes shells too tough to break
Final Thoughts
Hatching chicks in an incubator is both science and magic. It’s humbling to witness life forming from a little egg with just warmth, care, and time. And once you see that first tiny beak poke through, you’ll totally understand the obsession.
Whether you’re adding to your backyard flock or just doing it for the fun and learning, this guide gives you all the tools you need for a successful hatch. Take it one day at a time, follow the steps, and enjoy every fluffy, cheepy moment.
Got questions or need help mid-hatch? I’m always here for troubleshooting! Happy hatching!
